Valley of the Lost Scrolls of Dunhuang, China

THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD
By Joyce Morgan

Temple Grotto in the Mogao Caves of China

CHINA - The main reason to visit the oasis [Gansu Province of Dunhuang] is to see the nearby painted Buddhist caves. The Mogao Caves, or Caves of the Thousand Buddhas, are a network of sacred grottoes hand-carved into a cliff face about 15 kilometres outside Dunhuang. They contain the world's greatest gallery of Buddhist art. Set in a river valley, the caves, with their precious artwork, are today protected by metal doors. Nearly 500 caves remain, created between the 4th and 14th centuries, each different in size and decoration. Some are tiny meditation cells, just big enough for a lone monk. Others have high ceilings and were able to hold a couple of hundred worshippers. [link]

FAST FACTS

Getting there

• Air China has a fare to Dunhuang from Sydney for about $1200 return including tax. You fly non-stop to Beijing (12hr), then Dunhuang (3hr 15min); Melbourne passengers connect in Sydney. Australians require a visa.
• The author flew to Dunhuang from Shanghai and returned by train, via Lanzhou and Xian, which was booked at the Dunhuang railway ticket office. The two-day journey in a soft sleeper carriage costs $US138 ($130) for a lower berth.

Touring there

•  The author arranged a camel trek and one-day minibus trip to the Jade Gate and surrounds through John's Information Cafe, Mingshan Road, Dunhuang. Most hotels will organise trips.

Staying there

•  The Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel, about four kilometres south of town on Dunyue Road, resembles a traditional fort. Its rooftop bar is a good place to sink a beer at sunset. Double rooms cost from $78.
• Dunhuang Binguan, 14 East Yangguan Road, is a comfortable high-end hotel with double rooms from $110.
• Feitian Hotel, 22 Mingshan Road, is a mid-range hotel in the centre of town with rooms from $40.